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Friday, December 10, 2021

Hold the ice, please

     
The State Ferry Leconte heads for Juneau under a coat of ice.
T
he cold spell that cloaked southern Alaska a couple of weeks ago raised the recurrent realization
that if you live near big water, no matter how bad the weather gets, there are people out there offshore encountering conditions worse by magnitudes. Twice facebook users posted photographs of vessels on the ocean icing up, a dangerous situation for any vessel. It occurs when temperatures drop toward zero while wind whips up waves and as the boat crashes through them the spray that rises attaches to any exposed surface freezing to it almost immediately. That can be dangerous. Just one incident I am familiar with related to me by friends: A tug pulling a barge approached Whittier, Alaska, one January expecting to dock and at least release the barge. Ice stood in the way. The tug took on so much ice crossing the Gulf of Alaska all the doors to the cabin had frozen shut and the crew could not get out. A radio call to Whittier’s harbor brought a crew out to break the ice up enough so the crew could escape
Now as another such weather episode approaches, I am again recalling my own experience with that condition several years ago.
     I was delivering an 83-foot fish tender from Valdez, Alaska, to Port Angeles, Washington. We
Ice coats the rails on the Sikuliaq after a night
of wind and spray.

departed in early November after waiting for a week or so for a weather break. When it did, we hightailed it out. A low near Kodiak to the southwest of us was forecast to dissipate with calm seas and light winds to follow. Now I can say based on a previous experience I should have been suspicious. After all it can't happen twice, can it? 
     We had smooth sailing through Prince William Sound and turned southeast following the south coast of Alaska. Through that first night we pushed along in fairly calm waters on into the next day. We had planned to continue through the next night and reach the entrance into Southeastern Alaska the following day. That was until around the time we rounded Cape St. Elias and heard an updated weather forecast. That weakening low near Kodiak had deepened explosively (their word, not mine) and was moving rapidly to the northeast straight at us. I had heard a forecast like that once before (Singin’ them songs about them storms at sea). As the seas began rising I decided it would be better to hide out in Icy Bay, about a third of the way across the Gulf and wait out the storm. We found what looked like a suitable anchorage and settled in for the evening. What had looked good turned into a lee shore when the wind direction changed and sometime during the night we had dragged anchor dangerously close to that shore. Fortunately it turned out to be a steep shore and I was able to back the boat away from it and moved farther into the bay, this time tying off to a large buoy that was also holding a raft of logs. We spent the rest of the night and the next snuggled up to the logs while the storm howled outside the bay.
     The morning of the second day the wind and waves had subsided considerably. Supposedly we were facing winds no more than 20 knots and seas to 5 or 6 feet, nothing this boat couldn’t handle. The only problem might have been that we had to head into those waves and the temperature had dropped considerably. We headed out and into the waves. With the vessel tanked down we plowed through the waves and barely noticed the spray the bow threw up. Before we had gone too far as I looked out over the bow, something didn’t seem right. It took a while but in a few minutes I realized I couldn’t see the blue paint on the bow trim any more. I asked one of the crew to go out and see what was up and he came back shaking off water. That’s when I figured out what had happened. That spray we were throwing had hit the cold metal and frozen. We were freezing up and hadn’t even realized it.
   
The Tradition on a better day
    I knew this boat had some stabilization issues and more weight from ice topside would only add to those. I immediately slowed to about half our speed. We only had 48 miles from the anchorage to another bay and dock at Yakutat. Along the way I kept slowing in stages to keep the spray down and we proceeded across the Gulf, it took us 10 hours to go those 48 miles. Toward the end of the trip I could feel the vessel sluggish to steer and in a roll took a little longer to right itself. Then at the bay we had to cross a bar, where the sea floor rose creating waves. Now we had to cross it with a potentially unstable vessel. I tried the Coast Guard but a local answered. In a short conversation he told me where it was best to cross and we made it without difficulty though it did throw us around a little, motored into the harbor and found a place to tie off, glad to be stopped. Once safe in harbor we tackled the job of knocking off all that ice, in some places more than an inch thick.
     So, now as another wave of Arctic air heads this way, again my thoughts turn to my own brief encounter with an icy boat, and too, I think of all those mariners out there, catching our food and transporting our supplies and products under those conditions and know that here on shore I have nothing to complain about if it turns a little colder.

Go here for more information on vessel icing, causes and danger.

Monday, September 13, 2021

A captain's first voyage

Captain Justin M. Jones (21 likes)
My son made his first trip as THE CAPTAIN, driving the 90-foot Glacier Spirit September 11, 2021.

Photos and comments from Carrie Ann Nash
So far one of the more eloquent and articulate narrations I have had the pleasure to hear
He did an amazing job They had a Chipibration after docking with champagne and pizza. He was embarrassed by the attention.

     Back in Fairbanks and I have time to relate some more impressions. I know that all the technical boat skills are super important, but being me, I sometimes focus on the narration. His was stellar. People listened. He had some jokes on the level of potato navigation*: When they first saw otters he explained how they grab a rock to use as a tool. Then. he told them that apparently some otters in this part of the Sound have not learned to do that yet. They haven't made it into the Stone Age...

     All the skippers point out a shape on one of edges of the Entrance Is. rocks that looks like a face. He gave a long explanation about a WWF-loving crew member who thinks it looks like Duane, "The ROCK" Johnson. At Bull's Head as a way of explaining that these sea lions are mostly failed, smaller males he said that these sea lions "have a lot of love to give", but unfortunately it didn't work out for them, because here they are. (or something like that.)

     And.. while working his way through an amazing amount of ice, determined to get to the face ( of Columbia Glacier). he said that if people were worried about the clunking and crashing noises of the ice, they shouldn't be because "this vessel has been built entirely out of styrofoam..."

Seen by Carrie Ann Nash at 11:49 AM

    I don't know what his long-term goal is, but all the captains were very proud of him. He exuded confidence and could probably take his skills lots of places in the future if he decides to.

It was great to see Ariel. That was a highlight for me!

Thank you, Carrie Ann


*Potato navigation was one of my jokes when I did this in the 80s. I would tell it on foggy days as we passed Potato Point. That's when it's so foggy you have to send a crew person up on the bow with a sack of potatoes. One is thrown every so often and if one doesn't splash, you turn away.


The captain, his sister Ariel, Carrie Nash (eldest 
daughter of Stan Stephens); Mary Helen 
Stephens, Carrie's mother.

Snapshots on the first day but one.

At the helm of a 151-foot
tall ship (2010) on the big ocean

In the beginning …
(24 Facebook likes )
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The Glacier Spirit;  (38 "likes" on Facebook)


  • HERE ARE SOME COMMENTS FROM A FACEBOOK 




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    Philip Munger
    So sweet. I hope he follows your sage advice better than I did almost exactly 40 years ago, Orca!
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      Tim Jones
      Thanks, Phil, not sure what that advice was, though. I read your news this week, hoping you are doing all right.
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  • Karen Lachance
    No way!! That is very cool Tim.
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  • Sharon Wright
    That's so fun to know! Like papa like son.
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  • Marian Nattrass
    That is wonderful and quite an accomplishment!
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  • Carole Trombetta Thoresen
    Wow, that’s awesome! Out of which Port?
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  • Mark Fuerstenau
    That's great! Following in the old man's footsteps!
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  • Jeanne Passin
    Fantastic! The Apple sure doesn’t fall far from the tree!
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Sailing with Chip   A tall ship on the big ocean
Sailing with Chip  A photo gallery