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A pirate looks at 40 with the Orca
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PART 2, THE BIG OCEAN
This is a tale journaling the voyage of the sailing vessel Midnight Sun, a Nordic 44, departing Valdez, Alaska, bound for Honolulu Hawaii in 1982 with base crew of five.This part begins after a trip through the Inside Passage and nine days spent ashore in Puget Sound.
Sailing Day 21, September 29: As we depart Bellingham, it's time to introduce the crew, those five who sailed to Hawaii. The captain was Vince, who came to be called Captain Invincible as the syntax of the voyage expanded; next, me, licensed skipper and recently published author; then there were three Mikes: Mike R, the most creative mechanic I ever encountered; Mike K, a vegetarian; and Mike L, a lawyer and friend of the owner.
We tootled through the San Juan Islands to Reid Harbor. Nice day, going to Port Townsend to outfit for the crossing. Just about citied out and slowly easing back into boat life again.
Sailing Day 22, October 3: Ready to leave Port Townsend in the morning. Highlight of the stay was the tour of Neil Young's replica old-time, square-rigged sailing ship the W.N. Ragland. As could be expected, amazing sound system on board. In the evening standing in the cockpit looking down the deck of the boat and everything seems ready and anxious to go. Harbor water lay calm with no wind yet the boat seemed to move, as if surging against its mooring lines demanding its release from land. Even the halyards and other lines going aloft seemed to move in nervous anticipation of the voyage to come. Time to go.
Day 24, October 4: Finally under way for Port Angeles with the open ocean tomorrow. Boat lunged against its mooring lines again this morning and seemed to leap forward as we released them so we could leave. We made Port Angeles, but left about 14:00 even though it didn't look like we could make it out of the Strait of Juan de Fuca this day. Forecast called for winds of 25-35 knots, but lessening the next day into that evening. Made a last phone call before I would be out of contact for who knows how long. Call resulted in a disagreement with a woman I had been seeing, which was less than thrilling on the eve of what I looked forward to beginning one of the great adventures of my life. So it goes.
A brilliant red moonrise over Juan De Fuca as we ran in the dark to Neah Bay. Ate another turkey along the way. Out.
Day 25, October 5: Ready to go but waiting weather. Gale warnings for waters 60-200 miles offshore the coast of Washington. Small craft warnings for up to 60 miles offshore. Gale and storm warnings farther north, all southwesterlies which would be right on the head for our planned course. Good day to wait, several chores to do yet.
Day 26, October 6: Waiting out weather for most of the day, then took on fuel and left about 16:34. Spirits up, heading to sea. The storm was subsiding but there was still a pretty good lump. I had the helm. Turned corner to the west outside Neah Bay and set sail for Hawaii. Waves 8-11 feet going into them on a close reach. Passed Cape Flattery on a course of 270 heading west. Took gusts in the 20s and some higher, one of 34. Had some difficulty holding the helm especially when a wave would head us. Leaning over the side with the boat healed over we saw the base of the keel a time of two. Took water on deck occasionally when the bow dipped despite only using the working jib. Going straight into the squall but could see light on the horizon beyond it. Vince said come up so I brought us closer on the wind to slow us and steady us a little. Wind started shifting to the north. Came too close to it at one point and stalled. The jib backed and had to turn off until the sails filled and gave us some way so we could come about and return to our original course. Still having difficulty holding the helm. Then Mike R called out we had broken the starboard top shroud (a stay that supports the mast) and it was swinging wildly. In a guttural voice, Mike says, "We go home now." So, lessening sail to ease the strain on the mast we turned and returned to Neah Bay.
Day 27, October 7: Captain Vince was able to contact the ship yard by phone and they said they could ship a new shroud to Port Angeles for arrival the next day, so we spent the rest of the day sailing there.
Day 28, October 8: The shroud arrived early and Mike R went up the mast to remove the remnants of the old one and attach the new one. We sailed out of Port Angeles at 12:57. That fix had to be some kind of record.
Trip Log start: Loran C: 1592.6/3622.6 (This was before GPS)
Engine hours: 841.97
Barometer: 1025 rising
Weather forecast: East winds to 30k in Juan de Fuca; wind 15-25 SE. Seas 10-12, lessening overnight.
Depart 1300. I had the watch from 2000 to midnight and then 0400- 0800 on the 9th. Good sailing overnight and made 140 NM from Cape Flattery in 22 hours heading south toward Cape Mendocino 200 miles north of San Francisco.
Day 29, October 9: In the watch scheme I had the next 24 hours free. The way Captain Vince had worked out the watch schedule we had two six-hour watches during the day and three four-hour watches overnight that gave each of us a full 24 hours off every three or four days. Mine just happened to come up first. I took advantage to make my first miserable attempt at fixing our position with a sun sight. Got over the queasies I usually feel the first few hours offshore and then read and slept most of the day.
Day 30, October 10: Sea perfect. Ran wing and wing heading south. (Wing and wing refers to running before the wind with two headsails run up the forestay with one tacking on each side of the boat.) Making six knots with the boat on even keel and thinking this is what it is supposed to be like.
Days 31-32, October 11 and 12: One full day at sea. At midnight on the 10th our watch ended but we had wrapped the light-air genoa around the forestay and when the others came up we tried to bring it down but it was knotted and wouldn’t come down easily. The orange part had been ballooned by wind and kept everything else tight. We changed course to shield it with the main and planned to run the rest of the night like that. Mike R and I went to bed but before we could fall asleep all hands called on deck. Shielded from the wind the genoa had started unfurling and fearing the forestay might come loose as the balloon got bigger and put more strain on it we tried taking it down again. We ran the engine until the boat matched the speed of the wind. That took pressure off the sail and we started unwinding and yanking. It took about half an hour but the sail finally came down and we could release it from the forestay. For the time being it was packed away in the forepeak and Mike R and I went back to our berths.